Ethnic Food Project

Delhi Dhaba is a tucked between Clarendon Boulevard and Wilson Boulevard in the Courthouse area of Arlington. Its side entrance is hard to see, but it still had a large and apparently loyal lunch crowd. The interior features cafeteria-style Indian food at a modest price. Also, there is a dining area in the back of the restaurant. The restaurant was being redone when we arrived, so we aren’t sure what it will look like when it is done. We found the staff to be extremely friendly. They even offered us samples of mulligatawny soup, chole, and dessert while the chef cooked fresh samosas and pakoras for us. By the way, “dhabas” are highway restaurants/truck stops that serve local cuisines. Most of these are 25/7 and serve truck drivers. Wikipedia notes that “Since most Indian truck drivers are of Punjabi descent, and Punjabi food and music is quite popular throughout India, the word dhaba has come to represent any restaurant that serves Punjabi food, especially the heavily-spiced and fried Punjabi fare preferred by many truck drivers.” Delhi Dhaba features primarily North Indian cuisine according to their website.

The different regions of India have markedly different cooking techniques and foods. Staples across all of the regions include rice, whole wheat flour (atta), and pulses (red lentil or masoor, channa or bengal gram, pigeon peas/yellow gram or toor, black gram or urad, and green gram or mung). The most common spices used in India include chili pepper, black mustard seed (rai), cumin (jeera), turmeric (haldi), fenugreek (methi), asofoetida (hing), ginger (adrak, coriander (dhania), and garlic (lassan). Often these are combined to form masalas.

North Indian cuisine includes Punjabi cuisine, Mughlai cuisine, Kashmiri cuisine, Awadhi cuisine, Uttar Pradesh cuisine, Rajasthani cuisine, Bhojpuri cuisine, Bihari cuisine, and Sindhi cuisine. All these cuisines share a higher use of diary products, the use of the tawa (griddle) to make flat breads (such as roti, paratha, and kulcha, the use of the tandoor, deep fried breads like puris and bhatoora, and the use of goat and lamb. North Indian desserts include gulab jamun, jalebi, peda, petha, kulfi, falooda, ras malai, barfi, laddu, and halwa. Kebabs can also be found in North Indian cuisine.

East Indian cuisine includes Assamese cuisine, Bengali cuisine, and Oriya cuisine and is most famous for its desserts like the rasagolla, chumchum, chhena poda, chhena gaja, etc.

South Indian cuisine includes the cuisine of Kerala, cuisine of Karnataka, the cuisine of Tamil Nadu, and the Cuisine of Goa. South Indian cuisine has considerable variation, most notably its emphasis on rice, use of coconut, pickles, vegetable stews, and curries. The dosa, poori, idli, vada, bonda, upma, and bajji are all South Indian staples. Due to the emphasis on rice, biryanis are southern dishes. Paneer (a soft cheese) is also common in southern cuisine.

Western India includes Goan cuisine, Maharashtrian cuisine, Saraswat cuisine, and Gujarati cuisine. Dishes, depending on the region, may rely more on rice, coconut, and fish (especially coastal regions). Goan cuisine reflects the influence of Portuguese colonization. For example, chicken vindalu is a Konkani/Goan dish whose name is derived from the Portuguese dish “Carne de Vinha d’ Alhos,” which is typically made with meat, pork, wine, and garlic and served on special occasions.

Delhi Dhaba’s special Punjabi cuisine includes a tandoor specials menu with a variety of meats, fishes, and shellfish. Additionally, the infamous butter chicken is a typical dish that is thought to have come from Delhi and to have originated during the Mughal Empire. Delhi Dhaba also has cuisine from other regions of India, like biryanis and on Sundays boasts over 45 different types of Indian cuisine for $10.95.

We ordered the Quick Pick (which is two curries with rice and a choice of naan, roti, or rice), which is $5.95. Ours featured butter chicken, saag paneer, and rice. We found the meal to be flavorful. We also ordered pakoras, which they cooked fresh for us and were yummy. The pakora is a fried snack food that typically consists of potato, spinach, onion, or chicken dipped in a batter of gram flour and deep fried. Delhi Dhaba serves both meat and vegetarian pakoras, although we tried only the vegetarian types. We also ate samosas, which are piping hot. We learned that the samosa is the most infamous North Indian snack food. The word “samosa” is traced to the Persian word “sanbosag,” and similar sounding terms exist for similar stuffed items throughout the Middle East and South Asia, as well. In fact, the samosa was thought to have existed prior to the 10th century. Abolfazi Beyhagi, an Iranian historian, mentioned it during his lifetime, which was from 995-1077.

We were also offered samples while we waited for our food to be cooked and were able to sample some delicious mulligatawny soup. We learned that the soup is Anglo-Indian in origin (the soup preparation is probably the British influence). The soup’s name is translated literally from Tamil and means “pepper water.” Millagu means pepper and Thanni means water. They also kindly gave us samples of chole, or chana masala, which was rich and flavorful. Chana masala is an extremely popular dish in the Punjab region. Finally, to round things off, they also gave us a taste of their dessert of the day, which was kheer. Kheer is similar to rice pudding and is made by boiling rice, milk, sugar, and seasonings together. Their kheer was thin and sweet. The word kheer is derived from the Sanskrit word “ksheer,” which means milk.

We loved the fact that on the weekends they have a special menu that features popular Indian street foods from different regions. Included in this menu is bhelpuri, a puffed rice snack served with potatos and a tamarind sauce. This dish is tyupical of Bombay. They also papri chat, a favorite North Indian street food of fried dough cut into strips and fried, then served with potatos, chick peas, chili, yogurt, chutney, chaat masala, and sev. Finally, they also serve panipuri (or gol gappa), another street food common in the North and West of India. The snack is served with a thin hollow fried ball that is then filled with water, tamarind, chili, chat masala, potato, onion, and chickpeas and then eaten before it dissolves. The fried ball is bite-sized and the entire snack is made to be eaten in one bite. We thought these foods are fairly uncommon, and liked the fact that the service was firnedly and seemed to enjoy their jobs.

TOTAL: $5.95 per person for the Quick Pick, otherwise between $5.95-$15, depending on the entree

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Kabul Kabob House is a small restaurant in the Van Dorn area of Alexandria. They cater primarily to the neighborhood and consequently, the restaurant has plastic table cloths, no table service, and is geared toward a low-maintenance lunch crowd. They offer a lunchtime buffet and dinner. The restaurant is staffed by a perpetually friendly lady works long hours and is comes up with the menu herself. The signage states that the food is halaal.The menu is quite large and has a lot of options, including kabob, tandori, palou, chalou, and sambosa, aushak, mastawa, aush, etc.

Afghanistan, versus other countries in the region, has a wide terrain that makes it suitable for growing a variety of grains, including wheat, corn, barley, and rice. Similar to other Middle Eastern countries, yogurt is important to the cuisine. Afghanistan is also said to be known for its grapes, although we didn’t see many grape-related items on the menu. According to Wikipedia:

Afghanistan produces exceptionally high quality fruits, notably grapes, pomegranates, apricots, berries, and plums. These fruits have traditionally been Afghanistan’s main food exports. Dried nuts and seeds, such as walnuts, pistachios, almonds, and pine nuts are both very popular and plentiful in Afghanistan. Exceptional varieties of oranges, known locally as “Malta” are grown in the warm climate of Nangarhar province. Olive oil is also produced in Nangarhar province but for local and national consumption only. Herbs and spices used in Afghan cuisine include mint, saffron, coriander, cilantro, cardamom, and black pepper. Lamb and chicken are the preferred meats. When available, meat is widely consumed. Afghan cuisine emphasizes well-balanced tastes. Food should be seasoned but neither too spicy nor too bland. Contrasts are emphasized.

An major influence on Afghan cuisine occurred in Kabul, the royal seat. The royal families focused time and effort in cultivating Afghan cuisine by appointing chefs to create speciality dishes. These dishes include kormas, palaos, rice dishes, desserts, and more, which were featured on Kabul Kabob House’s menu.  Rice dishes, especially, are considered expensive and sumptuous. Traditional rice dishes featured on the menu were Chalou and Palou. We ordered the Potato Chalou (although the menu has many different types of Chalou), which was a stew composed of potato and beef served with white rice, brown rice, and bread. The stew was savory and garlicky, and not spicy. The menu also featured Palou, which is considered the national dish of Afghanistan (related to pilafs). Although we didn’t try it, the menu listed Qabli Palou, and describes it as “tendered, seasoned chunks of lamb, covered with brown rice, topped with shredded carrot, raisins, almonds, and served with Afghani bread, salad, and lemon cilantro sauce. From the description, it seems that the difference between Chalou and Palou is whether the rice is combined or served separately.

Other traditional dishes we were surprised to see on the menu (although we didn’t try them!) were Aushak and Mano, dumpling dishes. Wikipedia states that these dumpling dishes are “wildly popular,” but almost always served in the home because forming the dumplings is a laborious process. Manto is an Uzbek dish where the dumplings are filled with onions and ground beef. At Kabul Kabob House they are topped with yogurt, although they can also be served with a tomato-based sauce. Aushak is from Kabul, and are dumplings filled with leeks and topped with a garlic yogurt sauce. These dumplings can have many regional variations.

Similar to other Middle Easter cuisine, kabob was featured on the menu. In Afghanistan, kabobs are stricly street food and are rarely served in the homes. Lamb is the most common meat used and most kabobs are served with bread rather than rice. Often, the kabobs are topped with sumac, a purple/maroon spice that gives a lemony taste to foods. We tried the Chapli kabob, which is one of the types of kabob that is served only in Afghanistan and Pakistan.  Unlike other types of kabob, the chapli kabob is shaped like a hamburger and is a mixture of flour and meat, making it less expensive. Ours was served on a bed of rice and we found it to be tender, savory, and juicy. We were also served a salad and had the option of a variety of sides. We chose cabbage with beef, which was savory and tasty.

Along with our meal, we were served two enormous pieces of bread. Although the menu called it “Afghani bread,” bread in Afghanistan is called Naan (translates to “bread”). The Atlantic has an interesting article on the importance of this bread to Afghan culture, where it is served at every meal and served all throughout the day. However, ours did not resemble the photo in the article or look like Indian naan, although it was cooked in a deep stove. Ours was oval shaped, golden colored, and cooked so that it is slightly crisp on the outside but tender on the inside. It looked more like Obi Non, which Wikipedia states is an Uzbek variety and often served round. Regardless, the bread was fresh, warm, and delicious.

We also liked the variety of desserts available. The menu featured Goshifeel, Ferny, Afghani Ice Cream, and rice pudding. Goshifeel, or “Gosh Feel,” resembled triangles of flat fried dough covered in sugar and crushed pistachio. We ordered some, but ended up forgetting them there so we didn’t get to try it. The rice pudding was highly flavored with cardamom. The Afghani Ice Cream was described on the menu as “prepared with a special kind of noodle,” and we learned that this traditional dessert is called Faloodeh. Wikipedia describes its interesting background:

is a Persian sorbet made of thin vermicelli noodles frozen with corn starch, rose water, lime juice, and often ground pistachios. It is a traditional dessert in Iran and Afghanistan. It was brought to the Indian subcontinent during the Mughal period. The faloodeh of Shiraz is famous. Faloodeh is one of the earliest forms of frozen desserts, existing as early as 400 BCE. Ice was brought down from high mountains and stored in tall refrigerated buildings called yakhchals, which were kept cool by windcatchers.

We found it flavorful, rich, and creamy. They also have baklava, which is also common in Afghanistan. Afghan baklava is cut in triangle shapes and toped with crushed pistachio.

One of the amusing items on the menu was Horchat and Lassis. The lady who works at Kabul Kabob  House informed us that lassis do exist in Afghanistan, but are called a different name. Horchata is a traditional Spanish or Latin American beverage. She said, however, that she put it on her menu because so many of her clientele asked for it during lunch time. We tried her horchat and found it to be light, milky, sweet, and flavored with sesame and cumin – a spin on traditional horchata.

TOTAL: $29.99, including tax (two entrees, one drink, one dessert)

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