Cassoulet

It’s Bastille Day! We are celebrating it by eating at Bastille, a cute and cozy restaurant in Alexandria, Virginia. It is a little pricey, but sometimes we have to splurge. We didn’t really think much of French food…until we came here and everything was delicious. We ordered a bean cassoulet, and it so rich, hearty, and tasty, it upset our notions of French food – which centered around fish. What we learned is that French food, like much cuisine, is very regionalized. According to the Wikipedia entry on French cuisine, in Toulouse, Quercy, and Aveyron harricot beans are extensively grown, which are used in cassoulets. It’s actually a pretty old dish:

During the 15th and 16th centuries, French cuisine assimilated many new food items from the New World. Although they were slow to be adopted, records of banquets show Catherine de’ Medici serving sixty-six turkeys at one dinner. The dish called cassoulet has its roots in the New World discovery of haricot beans, which are central to the dish’s creation, but had not existed outside of the New World until its exploration by Christopher Columbus.

Our cassoulet from Bastille was traditional and typical. The traditional cassoulet is a slow-cooked stew with meat in it. Ours contained sausage and duck, as well the white haricot beans. It arrived in the standard cooking vessel and was piping hot. There are regional variations of cassoulet, although Castelnaudary, is the self-proclaimed “Capital of Cassoulet,” along with Toulouse, and Carcassonne. According to the Wikipedia on cassoulet:

All are made with white beans (haricots blancs or lingots), which have replaced the medieval broad bean Vica fava, and duck or goose confit, meat and sausages. In the cassoulet of Toulouse, the meats are pork and mutton, the latter frequently a cold roast shoulder. The Carcassonne version is similar but doubles the portion of mutton and sometimes replaces the duck with partridge. The cassoulet of Castelnaudary uses a duck confit instead of mutton. Cassoulet is traditionally topped by fried bread cubes and cracklings.

Cassoulet is so popular and traditional that you can also get canned versions in France (of course with varying quality). The cheapest, of course, substitute other meat for duck and goose.

What we thought was most interesting (since we had limited time) were the interesting drinks on the menu. We ordered Happy Soda, a sweet soda similar in some ways to an egg cream. We later read that Happy Soda is the translation of Es Soda Gembira and is sweetened condensed milk and soda water (although ours was pink, so they must do something else to it). We also read on Papayas and Dog Vegetables that the soda originates in Bahasa Indonesia and is a very popular on the Island of Java. The blog states taht “most would agree that the drink originated from Surabaya – the island’s second largest city.”

Another interesting beverage the brave can get here for $10 a cup is Kopi Luwak, or the infamous civet coffee! The coffee is a lot milder and less harsh than normal coffee, it turns out.

refers to a small restaurant serving Greek cuisine, not to be confused with “tavern”. The Greek word is ταβέρνα and is originally derived from the Latin word taberna (‘shed’ or ‘hut’, from tabula ‘board’, possibly by dissimilation from traberna, from trabs: beam, timber). As Greeks have migrated elsewhere, tavernes (plural) have spread throughout the world, especially countries such as the USA and Australia. The taverna is an integral part of Greek cuisine and of Greek culture. Usually in tavernas there is, often live, Greek traditional music such as rembetiko, and people apart from dining can join in Greek dances such as zeibekiko and hasapiko.

We ordered the buffet and were immediately brought bread, extra-virgin olive oil (which looked even darker than normal extra virgin olive oil), and a cold pureed and cream of broccoli soup. Κρητική Διατροφή wrote ”that one who eats oil and bread and oily pastries is invincible to the arrows of death.” The Cretan/Greek diet is supposed to be one of the healthiest in the world. A Greek travel site explains the Cretan diet, which has olive oil as its staple and also includes wheat, vegetables, cheeses, and wine. Much of the Greek diet is ancient or influenced by the Arab world, as Wikipedia notes:

Some dishes can be traced back to ancient Greece: lentil soup, fasolada, retsina (white or rosé wine flavored with pine resin) and pasteli (candy bar with sesame seeds baked with honey); some to the Hellenistic and Roman periods: loukaniko (dried pork sausage); and Byzantium: feta cheese, avgotaraho (cured fish roe) and paximadi (traditional hard bread baked from corn, barley and rye). There are also many ancient and Byzantine dishes which are no longer consumed: porridge as the main staple, fish sauce, and salt water mixed into wine.

Many dishes are part of the larger tradition of Ottoman cuisine and their names reveal Arabic, Persian or Turkish roots: moussaka, tzatziki, yuvarlakia, keftethes, boureki, and so on. Many dishes’ names probably entered the Greek vocabulary during Ottoman times, or earlier in contact with the Persians and the Arabs. Some dishes may be pre-Ottoman, only taking Turkish names later; Ash and Dalby, for example, speculate that grape-leaf dolmathes were made by the early Byzantine period.

A few dishes are influenced by Venetian (Italian) and French cuisines, such as pastitsio, makaronia me kima, (pasta with meat) found mostly in Greece and Anatolia and Asia Minor and regions of that influence.

We tried to find the history of the cold broccoli soup, which was a thin and finely purred soup that tasted exactly like cold broccoli soup, however all we could find about it was a recipe on Greekrecipes.com for it. It seems like cold soups are common in Greece, though.

The buffet had a variety of hot and cold dishes. The entree changes from day to day, and on the day we went they served lamb. They had a garden salad, various spreads, and a Greek salad with fish and a vinaigrette, stuffed grape leaves, and olives among the items in the cold salad section. Among the spreads included a fava bean spread. The spread resembled hummus to us and seemed like it was prepared in a similar way. Also included was taramosalata, a pink spread “traditionally made from taramas, the salted and cured roe of the cod or the carp, though blends based on other forms of fish roe, particularly cod, have become more common. The roe is mixed with either bread crumbs or mashed potato, and lemon juice, vinegar and olive oil” (Wikipedia).

We were served tzatziki (thinned yoghurt mixed with cucumbers, garlic, salt, olive oil, pepper, and other spices), which we learned has an interesting history inside and outside of Greece. In fact, we read that the word actually derives from a Turkish word. Ours was served as part of the buffet and we ate it with bread. However, Wikipedia notes that:

In Cyprus, the dish is known colloquially as ttalattouri (cf. tarator), and recipes often include less garlic and includes the herb mint, unlike the Greek counterpart. Tzatziki is always served cold.

In touristy restaurants, and outside Greece and Cyprus, tzatziki is often served with bread (loaf or pita) as part of the first course of a meal. Greeks, Cypriots and those from all over the Middle East use this dish as a side dish to a meal with meat. The acidity cuts the fat, thus tzatziki is also used as a sauce for souvlaki and gyros.

There were also other items in the buffet and possibly more spreads. One of them was a Greek salad served with chunks of marinated fish. We couldn’t figure out if this salad is traditional or not, but we did read that fish is traditionally a more common meat in Crete. We also were served feta cheese and stuffed grape leaves (dolmadakia). Feta cheese is ancient and one of the food items we found that is specifically Greek. A lot of foods common in Greece also occur in other countries that were formerly part of the Byzantine Empire, including salads, wine, and syrupy honey sweet meats (baklava?). Feta was originally associated with Crete and its storage in brine was even described in an Italian travel log in 1494. In fact, feta comes from the Italian word “fetta” meaning “slice,” which was introduced into the Greek language in the 17th century. Our feta was served in cube-like strips at the buffet. The European Union has protected feta as a “protected designation of origin product,” and has defined feta as a sheep’s milk cheese that may contain goat’s milk, but only if it makes up less than 30% of the total mixture. The curing of feta in brine is what gives feta its saltiness. Feta is also an aged cheese. Although we only had plain feta, it is often used in other Greek meals, like spanakopita (“spinach pie”) and tyropita (“cheese pie”).

The stuffed grape leaf is often listed as a “dolma” on menus. However, a dolma is an umbrella term for a stuffed vegetables common to countries formerly part of the Ottoman Empire, like Turkey, Greece, Cyprus, Iraq, the Balkans, etc. such as zucchini, eggplants, tomatoes, and peppers (Wikipedia). The stuffed grape leaf dolma can be filled with either meat (which are generally served warm) or without meat (generally served cold). Ours were served cold and with olive oil and stuffed with rice and spices and had a tangy taste.

We actually ate so much of the cold salads that we almost missed the entree: the lamb dish. This dish consisted of marinated pieces of lamb. We could not figure out what this was later and what the traditional name for this dish was, but it was delicious. Alongside this dish were plain steamed vegetables and a sort of rice pilaf.

We had to pass up trying dessert and of course we couldn’t try any other entrees, however, we noticed that the meal had a large variety of traditional, Cyprian, and Cretan cuisine. We ended up trying some Greek beer. Our server suggested we try KEO, which is a medium-toned Cypriot lager. It tasted similar to a pilsner.

TOTAL: $21.31 excluding tip per person (includes lunch buffet, one alcoholic beverage, and extra bread)

Afghanistan, versus other countries in the region, has a wide terrain that makes it suitable for growing a variety of grains, including wheat, corn, barley, and rice. Similar to other Middle Eastern countries, yogurt is important to the cuisine. Afghanistan is also said to be known for its grapes, although we didn’t see many grape-related items on the menu. According to Wikipedia:

Afghanistan produces exceptionally high quality fruits, notably grapes, pomegranates, apricots, berries, and plums. These fruits have traditionally been Afghanistan’s main food exports. Dried nuts and seeds, such as walnuts, pistachios, almonds, and pine nuts are both very popular and plentiful in Afghanistan. Exceptional varieties of oranges, known locally as “Malta” are grown in the warm climate of Nangarhar province. Olive oil is also produced in Nangarhar province but for local and national consumption only. Herbs and spices used in Afghan cuisine include mint, saffron, coriander, cilantro, cardamom, and black pepper. Lamb and chicken are the preferred meats. When available, meat is widely consumed. Afghan cuisine emphasizes well-balanced tastes. Food should be seasoned but neither too spicy nor too bland. Contrasts are emphasized.

An major influence on Afghan cuisine occurred in Kabul, the royal seat. The royal families focused time and effort in cultivating Afghan cuisine by appointing chefs to create speciality dishes. These dishes include kormas, palaos, rice dishes, desserts, and more, which were featured on Kabul Kabob House’s menu.  Rice dishes, especially, are considered expensive and sumptuous. Traditional rice dishes featured on the menu were Chalou and Palou. We ordered the Potato Chalou (although the menu has many different types of Chalou), which was a stew composed of potato and beef served with white rice, brown rice, and bread. The stew was savory and garlicky, and not spicy. The menu also featured Palou, which is considered the national dish of Afghanistan (related to pilafs). Although we didn’t try it, the menu listed Qabli Palou, and describes it as “tendered, seasoned chunks of lamb, covered with brown rice, topped with shredded carrot, raisins, almonds, and served with Afghani bread, salad, and lemon cilantro sauce. From the description, it seems that the difference between Chalou and Palou is whether the rice is combined or served separately.

Other traditional dishes we were surprised to see on the menu (although we didn’t try them!) were Aushak and Mano, dumpling dishes. Wikipedia states that these dumpling dishes are “wildly popular,” but almost always served in the home because forming the dumplings is a laborious process. Manto is an Uzbek dish where the dumplings are filled with onions and ground beef. At Kabul Kabob House they are topped with yogurt, although they can also be served with a tomato-based sauce. Aushak is from Kabul, and are dumplings filled with leeks and topped with a garlic yogurt sauce. These dumplings can have many regional variations.

Similar to other Middle Easter cuisine, kabob was featured on the menu. In Afghanistan, kabobs are stricly street food and are rarely served in the homes. Lamb is the most common meat used and most kabobs are served with bread rather than rice. Often, the kabobs are topped with sumac, a purple/maroon spice that gives a lemony taste to foods. We tried the Chapli kabob, which is one of the types of kabob that is served only in Afghanistan and Pakistan.  Unlike other types of kabob, the chapli kabob is shaped like a hamburger and is a mixture of flour and meat, making it less expensive. Ours was served on a bed of rice and we found it to be tender, savory, and juicy. We were also served a salad and had the option of a variety of sides. We chose cabbage with beef, which was savory and tasty.

Along with our meal, we were served two enormous pieces of bread. Although the menu called it “Afghani bread,” bread in Afghanistan is called Naan (translates to “bread”). The Atlantic has an interesting article on the importance of this bread to Afghan culture, where it is served at every meal and served all throughout the day. However, ours did not resemble the photo in the article or look like Indian naan, although it was cooked in a deep stove. Ours was oval shaped, golden colored, and cooked so that it is slightly crisp on the outside but tender on the inside. It looked more like Obi Non, which Wikipedia states is an Uzbek variety and often served round. Regardless, the bread was fresh, warm, and delicious.

We also liked the variety of desserts available. The menu featured Goshifeel, Ferny, Afghani Ice Cream, and rice pudding. Goshifeel, or “Gosh Feel,” resembled triangles of flat fried dough covered in sugar and crushed pistachio. We ordered some, but ended up forgetting them there so we didn’t get to try it. The rice pudding was highly flavored with cardamom. The Afghani Ice Cream was described on the menu as “prepared with a special kind of noodle,” and we learned that this traditional dessert is called Faloodeh. Wikipedia describes its interesting background:

is a Persian sorbet made of thin vermicelli noodles frozen with corn starch, rose water, lime juice, and often ground pistachios. It is a traditional dessert in Iran and Afghanistan. It was brought to the Indian subcontinent during the Mughal period. The faloodeh of Shiraz is famous. Faloodeh is one of the earliest forms of frozen desserts, existing as early as 400 BCE. Ice was brought down from high mountains and stored in tall refrigerated buildings called yakhchals, which were kept cool by windcatchers.

We found it flavorful, rich, and creamy. They also have baklava, which is also common in Afghanistan. Afghan baklava is cut in triangle shapes and toped with crushed pistachio.

One of the amusing items on the menu was Horchat and Lassis. The lady who works at Kabul Kabob  House informed us that lassis do exist in Afghanistan, but are called a different name. Horchata is a traditional Spanish or Latin American beverage. She said, however, that she put it on her menu because so many of her clientele asked for it during lunch time. We tried her horchat and found it to be light, milky, sweet, and flavored with sesame and cumin – a spin on traditional horchata.

TOTAL: $29.99, including tax (two entrees, one drink, one dessert)

Almost as soon as I walked in I was touched by the husband and wife playing chess at one of the tables. It turns out that the wife was also the only other woman in the place besides myself and also the chef. The place was male dominated, but everyone was extremely polite to me. One of the problems I encountered was the language barrier. The male servers, though very polite and eager to help me, spoke no English. Luckily one of the other patrons translated for me.

Egyptian food is apparently vegetarian friendly and relies heavily on legumes and vegetables, crops common to the Nile Valley. A lot of the dishes on the menu were familiar to me from other Middle Eastern cuisines like baba ghannouj, shawerma, kabob, etc. I’m not sure how these dishes differ from other countries in the Middle East.

The one dish that stood out was foul mudames (Ful medames), which I ordered. They served it on a plate accompanied by a basket of bread, similar to pita. Apparently this dish is very typical and has an interesting history. Ful translates to “fava beans” and medames means to “buried.” To me the dish tasted similar to refried beans and was rather rustic. Apparently this dish was originally a peasant food, but has now been fully incorporated into the Egyptian diet. The dish is commonly eaten for breakfast and has been described as “like a stone in the stomach.” The bread I was served is also a typical staple of all Egyptian meals which is more heartier and glutinous than typical pita bread and called Eish Masri or Eish Baladi. “Eish” comes from the verb “to live,” which reflects its importance to Egyptian life. I found the dish to be comforting, simple, bland, and filling. I ate the foul mudames using the pita since there were no utensils on the table – I assumed this was how it was done. I also found this recipe, I’m not sure if it is legimatimate or not.

I was mostly struck by the variety of drinks on the menu rather than the variety of food. Maybe this is because they have a full page of hookah flavors and the restaurant focuses more on people relaxing and drinking. Since it was cold outside I tried Cinnamon with Milk. It came in a glass and was very hot milk with cinnamon in it. It was not sweet and I wondered if I should have added sugar to it (there was some on the table) but I wasn’t sure. Perhaps I picked a boring drink to try, but I was craving cinnamon that day. Their other hot drink options included mint tea, fenugreek with milk, black fenugreek, anise, milk hot chocolate, coffees, teas, hot karkadi, etc. Their cold drink options included karkadi, carob, and tamarind. I wasn’t familiar with the word karkadi, but in English the translation is Hibiscus. Karkadi beverages are apparently very common in North Africa and were said to be the preferred drink of pharaohs. Wikipedia states that in Egypt, “wedding celebrations are traditionally toasted with a glass of hibiscus tea…[and] karkade is used as a means to lower blood pressure if consumed in high amounts.” So, something to consider trying.

I also decided to order some pastries. They gave me a rather large selection of six pastries for $5.95. These two pieces of three types. These were served warm. The first of these was baspusa (Basbousa), which is made of semolina soaked in syrup. To me it tasted like an extremely sweet and moist pastry with little other flavor. The semolina was soft and did not have the semolina texture of many Indian sweets I am used to. The second pastry was konafa (kanafeh), which was like a bunch of thin semolina noodles fried, soaked in syrup, and then cut into a square. I found this more pleasing than the baspusa because it had more texture. The final item was baklava, but formed into a donut shape with pistachios in the center and being baklava, was delicious. They also had rice pudding, flan, and mahalabia, all types of custard which I did not try.

For a week night, it wasn’t that full aside from the men smoking hookahs along the walls. I definitely smelled like hookah after I left, but I suppose that’s the nature of the restaurant.

Total: $16.22 excluding tax (one entree, one beverage, dessert selection)